Greater Lafayette Radon

If a radon test comes back at 4.0 pCi/L or higher — the EPA’s official action level — mitigation is the recommended next step. Here’s exactly what that involves, what it costs, and what to expect.

How Radon Mitigation Works

The standard, most effective method is called sub-slab depressurization, and it’s what the vast majority of Indiana homes need:

1. A technician cores a 4–5 inch hole through your basement or garage slab and creates a small suction pit in the soil underneath.
2. A pipe (typically 3-inch PVC) runs from that pit up through the house — usually routed through a closet or along an exterior wall — and out above the roofline.
3. A radon fan, mounted in the attic or outside, runs continuously and pulls radon-laden soil gas out from under the slab before it can enter your living space, venting it safely above the roof where it dilutes harmlessly into outdoor air.
4. Cracks and openings in the slab are sealed to cut off other entry points.
5. A monitoring gauge is installed so you (or your technician) can confirm at a glance that the system is still under negative pressure and working.

Done correctly, this reduces indoor radon levels by up to 99%.

What It Costs

Most Tippecanoe County homes with a standard basement fall in the $1,000–$1,500 range for a complete system. More complex homes — additions, multiple foundation types, crawl spaces combined with a basement — can run higher, up to around $2,000. You’ll get an exact number after an on-site evaluation; radon systems aren’t one-size-fits-all, and a fair contractor will tell you that upfront instead of quoting blind over the phone.

How Long It Takes

Most installations are completed in a single day, and the fan runs continuously afterward — there’s no ongoing maintenance beyond an occasional check that the fan is still running and the gauge still reads correctly.

Who’s Allowed to Do This Work

Indiana law requires anyone performing radon measurement or mitigation on a residential property to be licensed through the Indiana State Department of Health, which requires certification through either the National Radon Proficiency Program (NRPP) or the National Radon Safety Board (NRSB). Ask to see a contractor’s license before hiring — it’s a fair question, and a legitimate installer will have no problem answering it.

After Installation

A follow-up test (typically a short-term test placed a few days after the system is running) confirms the new radon level. This is standard practice and any reputable installer will include it or recommend it.